This watch – the Theorema Sahara Skeleton – definitely makes an impression on the wrist: The large diameter, gold plated case and with more visible action than usual. The watch face is transparent and allows the direct view into the mechanical hand winding movement. It bases on the famous family of Unitas movements, but is manufactured by an independent manufacturer.
Case & Strap
The watch comes in a solid and well manufactured steel case with a 44 millimeter diameter, plated in yellow gold. Other than many companies Theorema also plates the case back which is screwed in. Opening the watch is a pleasure that usually only watchmakers have – and watch blogger while testing. And I can assure you: Screwing and unscrewing the case back of the Theorema Sahara is like butter, speaking for a high-precision process during manufacturing. Thanks to the large crystal in the back, the movement can be enjoyed from both sides. The crystals are set perfectly, and the case finish is fine. The bezel is engraved with the brand name and minute numbers.
The strap is made of calf leather, sturdy and thick, and embossed with alligator pattern. It needs a few days to take the shape of the wrist, but wears comfortably. The strap is closed with a pin buckle, gold plated and engraved with the logo of Theorema.
Dial & Hands
The watch dial is made of transparent material, the index ring appears to float inside the watch. Everything is applied and looks to made with care. The hands are gold plated and filled with luminous paint – and thus glow in the dark to allow reading the nighttime. Corresponding dots mark the five-minute spots. The real adventure is the fully transparent mechanism visible through the dial: mainspring, balance wheel and even the winding mechanism are transparent.
The movement is the real star of the Sahara. It is skeletonized and fully engraved, plated with rhodium. The finish is great, and so are the results on the electronic timegrapher. Yes, this watch is precise. As it does not show a second hand, the wearer won’t see the precision – but know it. The amplitude – full wound – reaches 300 degrees, and the timekeeping is within 5 seconds per 24 hours.
The movement itself bases on the Unitas movements, made in Switzerland by ETA. As the original Unitas / ETA-movement has long run out of any protection thru a patent, other manufacturer could use the blueprints of the movements. The movement Theorema uses was made by an independent manufacturer to high standards, and it shows even details that distinguish it from the older Unitas base. It runs with 21.600 beats per hour, offering more precision and being slightly quieter than the original Unitas with 18.000 A/h. 17 ruby jewels take care of friction, and the large balance is protected by an incabloc-type shock protection.
The watch made by Theorema in Germany offers a lot of quality, precision and look. The watches are hand assembled in Pforzheim, the German capital of the gold industry and secret center of watchmaking. It offers a two-year warranty and comes in a handy box. Probably unknown, but in Albania the family Tufina – owners of Theorema – belong to the oldest watchmaking dynasty. For decades, the family imported Swiss timepieces and manufactured even their own ones. With that long history in watchmaking, Theorema now concentrates on the international market and offers watches with a high standard of quality, accurate and reliable. The design is in the hands of Enis Tufine, member of the 8th generartion of the watchmaking family Tufina.
And yes, due to the accuracy and long-lasting quality the price tag seems to be more than reasonable!